| With Fuerteventura's extensive dunes and volcanic areas and just the general scenery there is no problem to take lots of photos whilst on holiday on Fuerteventura. The weather in the Canary Islands are ideal for a late Autumn holidays - we especially like October and early November for that bit of pre-winter sunshine (Usually). We normally stay in Fuerteventura's Caleta de Fuste, which, being located halfway down the island is in an ideal position for driving/getting to various parts of the island for our walks and sightseeing. Nothing too much has changed that we could see except perhaps the increased building around Caleta, Costa Calma and Morro Jable - a lot of this building seems to for either Timeshare or for people to buy as retirement homes rather than hotel accommodation. Fuerteventura's fantastic Morro del Jable to Costa Calma 16 km beach has been left alone (we have walked this both ways in the nude without any problem) and new buildings behind the beach have been generally kept low and have been designed to fit in discretely with the landscape. |
If you like walking and finding your own private beaches etc
the island is unbeatable, with generally very little sign of life apart
from the occasional jeep safari or other walkers.
As mentioned Fuerteventura is an excellent holiday destination for nudists and
there are some really good beach walks possible - you can find quite
isolated beaches if you prefer to be alone or go onto the often quite busy
beaches around the dunes north of Caleta. We have two pages with walks
instructions/ideas on the island as well as other bits of interest -
our Fuerteventura Walks and Photos page
contains pictures including Costa Calma and Morro Jable.
Caleta de Fuste is located on Fuerteventura's
east coast - and being only a few kms south of the airport Caleta is quite well situated for
easy access to most of the island (we never had a problem with aircraft
noise by the way). Caleta is actually a fairly quiet place
despite the considerable amount of holiday accommodation, with a large sandy bay
very
suitable for children, a small fishing port to wander around and a good
selection of restaurants - including for some reason around 5 or 6
Chinese, as well as Greek, Indian and of course Spanish outlets. Nightlife
seemed non-existent with apparently most people heading home by around
1030 pm..
There were two walks we took from Caleta de Fuste, the
shortest one ( which many people with children undertake because of the
squirrels) is to walk up
the clearly visible hill which lies behind the town. To reach this simply head to towards
it and go UP and then UP some more - it is a nice walk though. There are
Barbary squirrels on the hill and so people often
take nuts with them - actually the squirrels seem to eat just about anything on offer.
Another Caleta walk takes
you south along the coast mostly along a track and along to the salt pans at Las
Salinas, passing some restored fortifications on the way.
Las Salinas has
a small sandy beach and a restaurant which is located along the beach
front.
If you feel like walking on a little further, go on through the
village and once you climb the crest of the hill you seem to be looking at
no-mans land with the view in front of you apparently totally devoid of life. You
can continue down into the Barranco de la Torre (which has palm trees) and
the unusual black sandy beach at Puerto de la Torre. If you continue from here you
climb out of the Barranco and follow the cliff top and will eventually arrive at
Bimboy beach.
The tiny island of Lobos is located at the
north of Fuerteventura quite near to Corralejo and the island is reached by a short boat trip from
the harbour. When we went there in October 2001 there were two types of boat
available - a glass bottomed type and an ex fishing boat.
They left the
harbour at 1000hrs and 1015hrs respectively and took about 35 minutes to get
to the island. If you intend walking around Lobos then walking boots are
favourite, also you should take some bottled water with you since there are
not too many supermarkets - none in fact - but there is a cafe/restaurant
near the jetty.
A walk around Lobos takes about 3 hours (meandering) and you would have great
trouble in getting lost - simply leave the
jetty and bear half-right (passing the Cafe after a few minutes.)
Keep to the coastal path which takes you through the tidal lagoons, after
which we ignored the "main" track by turning sharp right towards the sea
and picked up the small coastal path which wandered up and down along the
coast for a while - eventually arriving back on the main track quite near
to the Lighthouse.
From the Lighthouse you take the main track but bear
right on it's fork towards Montana Lobos, however just before
reaching it you can take a track off to the right which takes you down to
the beach inside the crater. When you return if you look carefully on the
steep screes to your right its possible to spot a path which links up with
the main crater path. Troll up the nicely steep crater path to the top
where you can wander along the ridge for a while, getting good views
including a view of the beach hidden inside the crater, the sand dunes of
Corralejo and of Lanzarote. Return to the main track, head right and in
around 15 minutes you arrive at the turn-off to Playa de la Calera (the
beach). Remember your return ferry time - it takes about 7 or 8 minutes to
get to the jetty from the beach - and the ferries don't wait.
Back on Fuerteventura - El Cotillo is located on the West Coast and has
one of our most favourite beaches, the only caution is regarding the
undercurrents which can make it quite dangerous for swimming.
The waves
can be really awesome - which is why you often see surfers around waiting
(eternally?) for the right wave. There is a really good cliff top walk - with
excellent views - park by the watchtower and just head south along the
beach and when it eventually ends climb up to the cliff top above and just
keep going as long as you care too. When you are about 90 minutes into the
walk you will be at the top of the steps which lead down to a sandy beach
(beware of the tide) - these are very steep and sometimes fragmented steps and also there are
Barbary squirrels darting around which can distract you.
On the route from El Cotillo
and heading towards La Olivia the road passes alongside a large lava field which has quite a
green look to it - with notably the colourful Montana Arena crater looking really weird
when the sun-light on it is from a particular angle.
Antigua is windmill territory on Fuerteventura - both old and new
varieties can be seen around here. Antigua's main square is dominated by a huge church, is tree-lined and
has many cactus and other plants and shrubs - making it a very cool and pleasant
place to stop. Don't miss the 200 year old
El Molino windmill just outside of
Antigua on the Puerto del Rosario road - part of the Antigua windmill
craft centre.
There is an enjoyable walk you may care to try leaving from Antigua which heads
up into the hills and ends up giving you splendid views for miles around
as well as offering a birds eye view of Betancuria. With the square on your left
and church belfry behind you head along the street and turn first right, follow
the road until it turns sharp right, carry on straight ahead on a track.
You can clearly see your intended route going across the valley and up into the
hills on a rocky zig-zag path. We finished our walk at the crest (Dogollada
de la Villa) with Betancuria in view and then walked back to Antgua
however you can alternatively continue along to Betancuria and take get taxi back.
Heading north out of Antigua you come to Tefia which also
has it's share of windmills. Take the road towards Puertito de los
Molinos and after a short distance you will see a restored windmill on
your right which is reachable by a track.
There are good views of the surrounding
hills - if the light is correct you can see many different colours in the
hillsides.
From here return to the road and turn right towards Los Molinos
- passing
Barranco de Los Molinos on the way - this barranco has a
permanently flowing stream which empties into the sea, providing duck-pond
facilities for some extremely hungry ducks. For hungry or thirsty humans
there is a restaurant where you can also find more hungry ducks as well as
hungry cats.
Return back to the main road and head south for
Betancuria which used to be the old capital of Fuerteventura. Once you have crossed
the valley you wind your way through the hills; there are two view points,
the Mirador Morro Velosa on a road to your left and another at the top of
the pass. Just before reaching Betancuria the ruins of the 15th century
Franciscan Covent of San Buenaventura are on the left. Betancuria has a
number of old houses, a cathedral and a Museo de Arte Sacro. The place is
also inundated with coach parties.
The countryside is quite green as you continue south
towards Pajara. When you reach Vega de Rio Palmas turn right on a
narrow road which takes you to the reservoir. There is a lovely walk near
here which will take you through a beautiful valley to the reservoir and
eventually the delightful church called Ermita de Nuestra Senora de la
Pena.
Park as near as possible to the streambed which is about
1km from where you joined the reservoir road. Simply walk along the
streambed until you reach clumps of tamarisk at which point continue along
the narrow path to the far edge of the reservoir. Make your way carefully
along the right hand side of the reservoir and pick up a stone path which
leads to the steps down to the little church. You can continue on the path
beyond the church for a while and will find several good picnic spots with excellent views.
Corralejo has a small beach, numerous shops and holiday accommodation and an
interesting harbour semi surrounded by tavernas and bars - the local wildlife seems
very well - trained at scrounging food from the restaurants customers - wildlife being the various seabirds and of course the cats.
Many visitors head for the miles of sand dunes just along the
coast - a paradise for nudists. Ferries leave here for Lanzarote
and for Lobos - when we visited Corralejo we originally planned to have a
day out (possibly with our car) to re-visit Lanzarote but the ferry prices
were in our personal opinion outrageous ((not just our view)) with
apparently two tariffs i.e. a local and a much higher tourist rate.
The Jandia Peninsula is well worth a
visit, with all guidebooks etc saying you should only use a 4wd vehicle
for your trip.
The dirt road surfaces are very rutted and in places very rutted however on our trip we did see a few people using ordinary
hire-cars (several stuck in sand or lodged on unfriendly rocks).
Just driving in our jeep was hard going at times with the ribble surface
shaking us badly even at low speed - goodness knows what damage and so on
was occurring with the hire-cars. Our hire-car company let us exchange our
car for a jeep for the day so the cost was only a few pounds - surely
worth while. There are several restaurants at
Puerto de la Cruz and also one at Cofete (where we sat outside looking at
the hills and had an excellent salad and omelette).
We started off just before Morro Jable Port on a signposted gravel road (clearly marked on the right) and
bumped our way up and along what was often a quite narrow and hair-pinned
experience, however after a few kilometres the
track improved a little to
become only awful. After around 12kms there is a turn-off to the right to
Cofete but we kept straight ahead towards Puerto de la Cruz and the
lighthouse at Punta de Jandia - this being the southernmost tip of the
island. There are tracks off to the left at various places but we decided
to check these out on our return trip. You will find the only bit of
tarmac surface on the Peninsula which heads from Puerto de la Cruz to
Punta Pesebre on the most western tip. The coast line is really worth
exploring right along this area and the sea crashing in on the rocks is
quite impressive.
Eventually we retraced our route back to the Cofete
junction and turned left - this
track to Cofete is very very steep and heavily rutted in places as you
zig-zag up and over the pass. At the very top of the pass there is a
small parking area and you have a really good view of the golden
beaches of Cofete and the Barlovento de Jandia. From here we
zig-zagged steeply down to Cofete, diverted to the Villa of Senor
Winter (a German who once owned the Peninsula) and then backtracked a
little and turned right down a track to the beach. This sandy beach
with it's superb waves is enormous and stretches well out of view both
ways.
However as with most western
beaches their are very strong currents and the sea is really only safe for a
paddle. When we eventually left the beach we returned over the pass and at the
junction turned left towards Morro Jable, however we diverted down several
of the tracks to look at the beaches and coves we had spotted previously -
well worth doing. We really enjoyed this trip and
will certainly do it all over again when we get the opportunity. However
next time if we use an open jeep we will put our belongings into plastic
bags or we will get a jeep with a roof - we were unbelievably covered in
dust by the time we got back to Morro Jable - as we drove back through we
were being stared at because of the state we were in and the guys at the Hire Company
laughed loudly!!!
Pozo Negro is a very small fishing
village with a stoney beach, cafe and seems to be quite unaffected by
tourism -
very pleasant place for a stroll and some sea air.
Las Playitas
is situated in the mouth of a barranco and has a
largish black sandy beach - it's considerably larger than Pozo Negro
but still very quiet. On leaving Las Playitas you find a road leading off to
your right which goes to El Faro de Entallada (a lighthouse very very high up on the rocky coast).
The road is always quite narrow but once you start climbing it narrows to
about car-width, climbs very steeply with numerous switchbacks and has
more than it's share of potholes - however the views on the way up and
from the lighthouse car-park make this well worth the drive.
Gran Tarajal is very much a working town, pretty
good to have a wander around but always seems terribly busy. It can
be a
nightmare just getting there let along trying to park; the best time we
found was on a Sunday morning since most other times we went it was
swamped with cars, farmer's pickups and lorries.
Probably the best scenic drive on
the island is round the Cardon. The drive can be started from the FV2 and
taking the FV511 heading inland and after only 200 metres turn left onto
the FV56 - a short way along this road you will find the turn-off to
Cardon (marked as a scenic route).
This winds up through the mountains
with some wonderful views and eventually ends up on the FV605 coast road.
If you turn left and head south take the junction marked Huertas de
Chilejia (on the left) and this takes you back across the mountains to
complete the original loop.
(The drive is actually worth doing in both directions since the scenery appears
completely different).
Pajara, one of our favourite places to visit. As you come into Pajara there is a good car
park on the left which is surrounded by beautiful trees and shrubs -
running alongside the car park is a (usually dry) stream bed lined on
both sides with flowering shrubs, and crossed by a small bridge.
Pajara is really a lovely place to wander around, with
it's trees and shrubs full of birds and insects, it's numerous small
gardens and squares, and of course the church with it's Aztec stone-carved
decorations above the main entrance. If you are lugging children around it
may be of interest to know that Pajara also has a swimming pool.
Ajuy is a small fishing village with a black sandy and
pebble beach and gets quite busy since coach excursions include it on their
circuit due to the Mirador Caleta Negra. The walk to the Mirador leaves the
beach on the right and goes up and around the rocks - it's all clearly marked
You arrive at one viewing platform and get excellent views along the cliffs and of the caves.
Then you can also take the narrow somewhat vertigous walk down the steps to a lower view point and
you can in fact go right on down to the sea.
Fuerteventura topics on our Site
Fuerteventura Walks
Fuerteventura Beach Photos
Fuerteventura External Links
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