Walks in and around the beautiful Pirghos Mountains of Lefkas, Greece.

Pirghos is the second highest location on the Ionian Island of Lefkas and although you are obviously quite high up the area is somewhat unusual since you discover that there is a quite large flat plateau with lots of fields to be enjoyed. The area is still used by the local farmers who grow corn, grapes and also have large herds of sheep and goats out grazing - and in the Spring some of the fields are covered in masses of wild flowers - plus seemingly thousands of the attendant bees, moths and butterflies. We went up there quite a few times whilst on our Lefkada holiday which was taken in late May and have described below several walks we did around the area - and quite unusually for Lefkas one walk is almost a circular.

We finished our day out walking by driving the fairly short distance over to the Lefkada naturist beach at Kathisma - all in all a great day out and we even missed the heavy thunderstorms which occurred around Nidhri that afternoon but did not affect our side of the island.

Aghios Dhonatos to Pirghos and back. Assuming you have a car to get to the start the best place to park is by the nice little church of Aghios Dhonatos which is located above Egklouvi - there are quite a few old stone houses to look at around here and a picnic area.

Continue ahead on the small road - this soon descends and the whole plateau and it's extensive series of fields open up before you - also above in the distance you can see the aerials which are sat on top of Pirghos. The walk is very straightforward since you simply follow the narrow surfaced road (ignore the track leaving on the right shortly after starting the walk) - the quiet road does a huge loop round the right hand side of the plateau. In May we found there was so much to see and enjoy, from rocky outcrops to huge fields of red poppies and larkspur - plus a huge variety of butterflies and all sorts of bees. Around 4.5kms from the start you will be walking with a gully below on the left

It is worth trying to spot a narrow path which goes down through this gully and heads towards the flat area since you will need to find this on the way back. As the road bends sharply left you reach a junction with a broad track going off on the right (this actually goes to Aghia Paraskevi Monastery and then on to Aghios Ilias so if you were cycling and wanted to circle back to Nidhri you could go this way and continue via Alatro and Charadhiaka and onto the coast). To continue the walk just stay on the metal road - this now starts to bend to the left and eventually climbs in earnest as it gets nearer Pirghos. Eventually at the aerials the main feature apart from the great views is that the whole road surface is covered in sheep and goat droppings - so you can imagine the flies etc. Having achieved the climb and enjoyed the views there is not much hesitation in turning back down the road. Shortly after passing the track junction (now on the left) make your way half right across the grassy/scrub area on the right-hand side of the road and look out for the start of the previously mentioned narrow path you hopefully spotted on the way up. This narrow path goes fairly straight and downwards heading towards the plateau and eventually meets up with a (usually) dry stream bed on the right. Sometimes the path does totally disappear but stay on the left hand side of the stream bed keeping always in the same basic direction and you will find it again.

As you near the flat area terraced fields appear on the right however don't be tempted to cut down to these too early as you will find lots of thorn and bramble and have to keep climbing over walls. Basically stay ahead and join the clearer field area as you now head straight towards two concrete wells and several trees. A grassy track starts from the wells - now simply follow this track as it goes between fields of grapes, poppies and corn (there were so many butterflies, birds and bees etc around the area it was unbelievable) all the way back to the original small tarmac road. Turn right and walk back up the hill to the start at Aghios Dhonatos.

Walking in the Pirghos hills - an "as long as you want to make it" walk done just for the sake of having a walk in the area. Again parking at Aghios Dhonatos continue along the small tarmac road however shortly take the tarmac road signposted to Chortata which leaves on the right. This simply wanders along as it heads towards Chortata - in Springtime the area is totally covered in wild flowers and wildlife and is simply enjoyable walking.

We turned back just above Chortata since another series of heavy clouds had descended on us and it was becoming a little hard to see much of anything. Around 1km back a track leaves on the right - if you want to have a bit more of a walk then you can follow this as it gently climbs further into the hills - there are lots of goats and sheep in the area. ***This track actually goes nowhere - it simply eventually stops so decide how far to walk since you obviously have to come back the same way. Return is a retrace of the outbound track since there is no loop possible that we could see - nevertheless as mentioned it is a pleasant bit of walking in lovely countryside.

*** A change to this courtesy of Mike and Pam Merrick "Before the road begins to drop down to Chortata it takes a sharp left turn with a new safety barrier on the right hand side. Here a track climbs away from the road on the left hand side. It climbs steadily and after 600m or so there is a junction where we took the left hand turn that makes a sharp hairpin and then runs along the side of the valley for 400m or so before entering an area of cultivated fields with a clear path running between them. From here it's easy to follow the track until it eventually rejoins the road and you can turn left back to Aghios Dhonatos".

Two more things to do since you are already in the area. On the way from Egklouvi to Agios Dhonatos and just before reaching that church there is a metal road signposted to the military base going off to the right - this is the way to get to the always visible church of Profitis Ilias which is perched high up on it's own hill above Egklouvi. To get to Profitis Ilias follow this road eventually passing some old military barracks on the right plus several huge concrete aerial reflectors. The road then passes an extensive excavation site which really scars the area - a little way along a narrow and very rutted road leaves on the right and goes through the excavated area - follow this to wind your way up to the church of Profitis Ilias. Return back to the junction - if you wish to go back towards Egklouvi then turn left. However if you fancy a swim and sunbathe on one of the nicest beaches on Lefkas then turn right - the road is currently marked as a track in places on maps but is in fact now metal.*** A map such as the excellent Topo is available and quite accurate and you should have one but basically around 4km from Profitis Ilias you reach the Exanthis to Pighadhisani road where you turn left to Exanthia. Once through Exanthia heading to Dhrimonas to reach the main road north of Kalamitsi, go right and follow the main road to the Kathisma junction and then down to Lefkada's Kathisma naturist beach for a well deserved swim and sunbathe (if it's not raining !).
***Two things to be aware of - firstly there is a large military base in the area and it has the usual "no photography" signs around - each time we went by we were watched by various people in the sentry posts so firstly don't forget to wave because they are probably bored stiff and secondly it's best not to ignore these no-photo signs. The second main point - black military cars from the base use the road and quite frankly these military drivers (a.k.a. idiots) drive far too fast and carelessly for such a narrow road.

Please visit our Lefkada Holidays Guide for many more topics about holidays and beaches on the island.