We were pleasantly surprised to find several mule-paths, moni-pati and paths
- mostly in good condition - to enjoy whilst on our Santorini holiday in late May
2008. The Topo map of Santorini (ISBN 960-8195-34-9) is quite good for showing the
roads and some of the Santorini's tracks but shows hardly any paths so ending up
finding and being able to walk quite reasonable distances on paths and particularly on some
really beautiful moni-pate was a bonus for us.
We have several walks described - from a fairly short walk from Perisa and crossing over
the saddle on the Mesa Vouno and back down to Kamari to a longer somewhat harder
walk which goes from Emborio up on a mule track to Pirghos then picks up a
moni-pati as it heads on further up into the hills to the highest point on
Santorini at Profitis Ilias Monastery (which is closed) before heading over the
hills and eventually back down to either Kamari or Perisa.
Other walks take you from Fira to Oia along Santorini's amazing cliffs - a very popular
walk for people on hoiday on the Island, another describes visiting Red Beach and
yet another goes from Perisa (this is mostly track and road) round the bottom of the Mesa Vouno to
reach Emborio, follows a line of windmills to the coast near Vlichadha then returns
along the coast back into Perisa.
A note about vertigo (this is Santorini after all). My wife can jump around on cat's back ridges with massive drops just inches away either side of her without any concern - I on the other hand have a problem with some heights in some circumstances. It is difficult to recommend on any of these walks whether someone might have a vertigo problem since what is ok or not can vary so much. None of the walks we have described have severe drops both sides - however several of them have parts where there are steeply sloping drops on one side or the other of the path and so these will be noted on our descriptions plus where possible a picture which might help.
Perisa to Kamari. This fairly strenuous one way walk is on a
often well surfaced but sometimes rubbly path
but you do walk along and eventually over the hillside with perhaps 45 degree drops
one side on the way to the saddle. Also if you divert to the small church at
Panaghia on the way up there is one place where the drop is nearly straight down
for a short distance.
Similarly after the saddle on the way down to Kamari there
are several places where there is a perhaps 20 to 30 degree slope down one side
- this path is generally quite wide though.
Start the walk from the northern end of Perisa Beach - walk inland on the
quiet road almost immediately passing the ruins of the Byzantine church of Aghia
Irini on the right. Follow the road round to the right with the hills now
looming high above and also you can see the small church of Panaghia tucked into
a fold in the cliffs high up on the right. This church is only a fairly short
diversion from the walk below but is well worth going too.
Not long after passing the Mariana Hotel take a dirt track on the right (this is
signposted "Ancient Thira") - then several metres down the track take a path
leaving on the right which heads up into the hills. This narrow twisty path
climbs quite steeply to reach a path junction - you will see a large white cross
painted on a rock just here. Do not take the really poor path heading towards
the cross, instead continue on the main path a little further on to reach
another path junction. Assuming you want to visit Panaghia church (why wouldn't
you after all?) go right and again follow the narrow path often steeply up. The
path does flatten a little as it rounds the hillside and just here there are
considerable drops down on the right - but you do get magnificent views of
Perisa now way below you as well as the coastline. Soon the path ends up at
narrow rocky steps - climb up these to reach the lovely little church of
Panaghia - there are several bench seats here situated under some trees so it's
a nice cooling down spot.
Return back to the previous path junction and now turn right and follow what is
a rocky but reasonably wide path which easily climbs up across the hillside to
eventually reach Mesa Vouno saddle. You will find a refreshment van here where
you can get cold drinks plus there are a few seats - note this van is usually
only open whilst the Ancient Thira site is open i.e. not Mondays and only to
14:30 on other days.
If you wish you can divert up the hill further and take a look at Ancient Thira
from here - looking round the site takes around an hour.
To continue the walk take the tarmac road and follow it for two bends and then
on it's third bend on the left take a gravely scree path (there is a large
white cross painted on a rock here showing the start point). This path soon
becomes a cobbled reasonably wide path and continues slowly down the hillside to
reach rock steps. Head on down these quite steep rocky steps - there are quite
considerable drops on the right just here but there is a semblance of a
handrail.
You start getting a glimpse of Kamari way down below and also
Zoodochos Pigi church starts to appear. You soon reach the church - this is a
beautiful area to stop off - there are quite a few stone seats situated under
trees and a large stone table just inside a cave and also (if the door is still
open/unlocked) you can go right into the cave and splash yourself with the
life-giving waters.
From the church continue on a really nice cobbled path which zig-zags it's way
on down the hillside - this is a well made path and quite wide. Eventually you
reach the outside of Kamari where you just walk on down one of the roads to
reach the beach area.
There is a boat service which runs from Kamari beach back
to Perisa once the main season gets started (it was running in late May 2008 and
costs 4 Euros each) or failing that you have to get the bus back to Thira and
then Perisa.
We have described this walk as one way but it can obviously be enjoyed "there and back"
or of course walked from Kamari to Perisa as a one-way - the walk does give quite
different views depending on which way round you go - we did it 3 times in fact
just because of how much we enjoyed it.
Fira (or Thira) to Oia. This undulating 12km moderate
walk gives you fabulous views of the lagoon, cliffs and also the various streets and
alleyways in Thira and Oia, visits several lovely churches as well as finishing off by
using a really nice wide mule-path. If you are Island Hopping or only on holiday on Santorini for a
very short time this is probably the best walk to do where you can see just what Santorini is all about
for its scenery, cliffs and so on.
There are obviously massive drops especially around Thira
but the initially paved route is wide so if you hate it too much you don't have to look.
We took loads of photos whilst walking along this really scenic Santorini
coastline - the views are so brilliant as well as the lovely churches and
buildings etc. that you have to sort of ration yourselves on how many you take
in the end - and then how many to put onto this walks guide.
Starting off from Santorini's main bus station in Thira head straight up the road
(probably along with 100's of other people) and walk to the edge of the cliffs
just past the Archaeological Museum - turn right and follow the narrow streets
and alleyways through Thira enjoying the amazing views - you are always right
next to the cliff face. Although the area is initially very busy with tourists
many of them get tired fairly quickly and you soon find the walking is much
nicer with less people around. The route continues on through Firostefani -
eventually after passing several churches you almost reach a tarmac road however
the route continues on a cobbled path to reach the large convent of Agios
Nikolaos. Continue on past the convent and then soon reach the next village
which is Imerovigli.
Once through the village the area opens out much more and the cobbled path
continues by a restaurant and some buildings and then becomes a dirt track where
it splits next to a hotel and a large parking area. Here you have to divert left
as you have to visit another of Santorini's hidden churches. Go through
the car park and at the far side a narrow stone path zig-zags down to reach the
lovely church of St Antonius - there are stone tables and seats inside several
caves. The views are pretty good.
Walk back up the path and through the car-park - now turn left and continue
along the track to shortly reach yet another but much larger church. Having
looked round this nice church continue yet again on the dirt track to reach the
church of Profitis Ilias. From here the path splits - the left path goes along
the edge of cliffs. This path has been paved part of the way down but the bottom
section has not been finished and is very poor underfoot with slippery scree -
however you do get marvellous views if you use this path. Alternatively the
right hand path has been paved all the way to where the two paths rejoin but
does not have such good views.
The paths join and then reach a road - turn left and follow the road for around
250 metres where there is a cafe on the left - just a few metres on a mule-path
leaves on the left - this really is a brilliant walled path to walk up - and it
does go up - passing two churches on the way to reach a saddle above Oia.
From here and having enjoyed the seemingly continuous excellent views nearly always
available on this walk - follow the path as it gently descends into the
outskirts of Oia.
Turn left along the road heading into the centre of Oia but not forgetting to take a look at
another large church on the way. Assuming you want to return to Thira (by bus)
and if you have sufficient time it is probably best to not wait at the several
bus stops on the way into the town but to go into Oia from where the bus actually starts. This is
because the bus often gets very full right from the start and is quite likely not to
stop at all once it departs from Oia as it's full up.
On our Emborio-Pirghos
page there are
walks and pictures for:
Emborio - Pirghos - Profitis Ilias Monastery - Profitis Ilias - Sellada - Perisa
or Kamari.
and
Pirghos - Vothonoas - Kamari.
Our Beaches and Windmills
page describes
walks which you might enjoy to:
Perisa - Emborio - windmills - Vlichadha - Perisa
and
Red Beach - Akrotiri - Kaparies - Taxiarchis - Kambia Beach - Red Beach.
or visit our Santorini HomePage for more topics and information about this scenic Greek holiday Island.
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