Travel, Holiday and Visitor Guide for Syros, Greece.
The Aegean Greek Island of Syros is part of the Cyclades and a good choice as part of a Greek Island Hopping holiday.
Getting to Syros. The small airport on Syros
does not cater for international flights so to fly into the island you have to
take a domestic Olympic Airways flight out of Athens - there seems to be only
two flights a week on Tuesdays and Saturdays and the flying time is around 45
minutes (but check dates with the airline's website as things change).
The normal way to get to Syros is by using a Greek Ferry - the island is a major
hub on the ferry network so there are plenty of choices. For example on a
typical Friday in the Summer at least 5 ferries arrive from Piraeus which is
only around 80 miles away.
Speedrunners take around 2.5 hours and the bigger Blue Star and Hellenic ferries
vary from 3.5 to 4 hours depending on intermediate island stops en route.
Syros's close neighbours are Andros, Tinos and Mykonos (ferry route), Serifos, Sifnos
and Milos (route) plus
Naxos, Paros and even Santorini are easily reached. Note there is a direct ferry link to Kea - so Syros is nicely
placed as part of an Island Hopping Holiday.
If travelling by ferry then the views as you approach Ermpoupolis are really
excellent with the districts of Ano Syros and Vorondadho sticking up high above
the harbour, topped by a monastery and a huge church respectively and with
houses and smaller churches clustered beneath.
Syros is far more of a working island than a tourist/holiday destination. Two thirds of
Syros is populated by "villages" which are often in effect clusters of quite
large and expensive looking houses. The north of the island is largely
unpopulated and quite barren looking in the summer months although you will find
the odd Greek goat or two around.
Getting Around Syros. The taxi rank at the port
is just by the harbour - typically prices seemed to be worked out with a few
Euros "getting in" price and then around 1 Euro per kilometre - as normal the
price should be agreed with the taxi-driver before actually travelling.
The bus service on the island is really good - the bus station is just where the
ferries dock and there is also a small information kiosk where you can get a
timetable. The service operates frequently and is reliable - buses leave around
every 30 minutes in peak season and the routes are basically one bus clockwise
and one anticlockwise. The clockwise goes via Hermoupolis, Azolimno, Vari, Mega
Gialo, Posidonia, Foinka, Gallisa and Ermpoupolis. The anti-clockwise goes via
the above route but obviously in reverse. In addition there is a frequent
service to Kini and back.
Accommodation on Syros. Finding accommodation on the island is not too difficult as for a start some owners meet the ferries and compete for your business - this can be quite beneficial if you have nothing arranged and arriving on a late ferry. In addition you will find along the harbour a large notice-board which gives details and phone numbers of available accommodation and hotels from around the island. Syros is nicely organised for helping holidaymakers and island hoppers find accommodation as most of the towns also have information boards on local rooms to let and hotels. Prices do vary enormously according to demand and time of year - in July you might expect to pay 45 to 50 Euros for a room.
Ermopouli (or HErmopouli). Ermoupoli is both the capital of
Syros and is also the capital of the Greek Cyclades Islands. There is a huge
shipbuilding and dry-docks area in Ermopouli as the port was at one time far more
important than Piraeus. As you arrive you see lots of large cranes plus
dry-docks to one side of the port although these days the area is pretty much idle apart
from small yachts/boats construction and
maintenance. The area around the shipyard (Neorio) is very interesting for a stroll around -
there are all sorts of boats to look at from fishing boats to dredgers.
Although some of the area is being cleared and/or renovated there are still quite
a few very old buildings and warehouses around to show what it must have looked
like in days past.
Ermopouli itself comprises of three separate areas
with the two hill top districts reachable by hundreds of steps. The start of
these stepped alleys are lined with tavernas and shops plus the first parts of
the alleys are lined with fish, meat and fruit markets on most days:
Ermopouli - Vaporia.
The district of Vaporia is located in the lower part of Ermopouli and is where in olden
days rich ship owners, merchants and bankers built their mansions. These
mansions and houses have been constructed all the way to the edge of the sea and can
still be seen today in much of their original form though some are in a bit of a poor state.
Ermopouli - Vorondado. The second area is on top of one of the hills and called Vorondadho. This is the Greek Orthodox
Quarter with it's spectacularly placed church of Anastasis sat right on top.
Start off from the harbour area on Chiou Xioy road and having passed through
market stalls you arrive at the Platia Miaouli which is the Town Square.
The Clocktower and Town Hall are located here and the large Square itself is
surrounded by lots of cafes and tavernas. To the left of the Clocktower the
steps start on Louka Ralli road which leads to the
church at Vorondadho - these steps take you on the considerable climb through narrow and very scenic alleyways or it is possible to get up
there by bus or taxi via the main road.
Ermopouli - Ano Syros.
Even higher though is the third part (or district) of the town called Ano Syros which
is the Catholic Quarter. To get up there by foot from Platia Miaouli take one of
the roads on the right of the Square which brings you to Omphoy St. then turn
right and follow the steps - and there are a lot of steps. On reaching a tarmac
road continue straight ahead and then take a marked path on the left - this
descends (Oh joy) to the main road - cross this and walk ahead climbing up
lots more steps and then some more steps to finally reach the top. Ano Syros is full of small churches and is topped by
the Cathedral of St George and the Cappuchin Monastery of St Jean. Alternatively
you can get so far by road but will still have quite a few steps to enjoy to reach the top.
Galissa (or Galissas). Galissa has a large sandy beach a little way from the
road and the beaches sand stretches back quite a way so there is plenty of room
- there are also trees where you can hide from the sun. Parts of the have sun
chairs and umbrellas etc. and you and also hire paddle boats there - the rest of
the beach is left alone. Galissa beach is within a small cove and the water is
very shallow for some way in which makes it pretty good for young children.
Galissa was probably well used by package holiday companies at one time but there
seems to be only one operating now - however this means there is plenty of
accommodation available. The bus stop is just off the beach and here you will
also find some supermarkets, several tavernas and drinks bars.
Finika (or Finikas). The beach area at Finika is right next to the sometimes
busy road and is only a narrow strip of sand with a few trees on the edge. Not
really the beach to spend the day unless the wind was blowing badly and the
beach at Galissa which is way better was suffering from flying sand. There are
several tavernas two of which have tables out on the quay side - prices seemed
to vary with a litre jug of wine around 7 Euros and main course food around 8 or
9 Euros each. Greek salads were for some obscure reason really expensive - often
at around 6 Euros which is a lot for a few tomatoes - onions - olives and a bit
of feta. There is a bakery however the supermarket is a short way out of the
village on the road to Gallisa.
Posidhonia area. Located further along the road from Finika Posidhonia also
has beaches which are along the main road and are fairly narrow affairs. The
first beach you reach is Voulgari Beach which is narrow and tree-lined and then
once up the slight hill just by the bus stop a narrow road on the right takes
down you to Posidhonia Beach itself. However if you stay on the main road still heading south
you pass the small harbour of Koutelo and just from there you will find a much better beach at Agathopes which has a long
sandy beach and it's a little more off the road. This beach has some trees and
also there are sunshades and chairs available for hire.
Even further along the road there is a small beach at Komito - this is a
really nice little sandy beach - completely off the road and the back of the
beach has plenty of olive trees for hiding from the hot sun. There are also just a few fixed beach umbrellas available which
just seemed to be free to use.
From the end of the beach there is a nice little
walk out to Cape Vighlostasi and back (4.5km there
and back) as follows.
From the far end of the beach where the track goes sharp right climb up the
hill-slope on a narrow gravely path - it goes over the hill and then arrives at
a path junction. Take the left fork and follow it as it goes towards a gate and
then continues alongside a wire fence.
The path leaves the fence and dips downslightly then goes sharp right along the hillside - then bends left to soon
reach a path t-junction***. Go right now on a wider
path - this now drops down then climbs somewhat steeply up through heavy rock to
a trig point at Zavalou. From there follow a narrow path to reach the beacon at
Cape Vighlostasi - where you will get really good views of everywhere. You
should also make sure you wave to the passing yachts struggling against the
waves which pass not too far away below you - whilst of course eating your
packed lunch. There is just a beacon now but from the look of the remains
presumably their was once a lighthosue and accommodation here.
Return back the same route but at the t-junction *** you can either go left back to Komito Beach or
go straight ahead.
This latter option takes you round the hills and coast and
brings you out at a small road - stay ahead on this as it goes steeply up and
then drops down to reach the main road outside of Posidhonia. Go left to reach
the bus stop or walk on by it and wander along the road back into Posidhonia
(where incidentally there is a really nice blue domed church - Aghios Ioannis).
Chalandriani to Ermoupoli Walk. This is a really nice
7km walk often on old mule
tracks which cuts across the island back into Ermoupoli - with the bonus of
fantastic views of Ano Syros and Vrondadho at the end. The start is just
outside the quite remote village of Chalandriani by the bus stop. Unsure about
whether buses actually go there so we just took a taxi from the Port which cost
10 Euros.
From the junction by the bus stop and looking out across the valley go right
following the signs for Kastri. The road zig-zag's down to a junction - go right
and follow it towards Plati Vouni. A little way along look out for a mule track
on the left - take this and follow it to a junction where you turn right (marked
Route 3). Head on up into the village - at the narrow village road turn right.
This meets a more main road but you should carry on ahead immediately onto a
cobbled track (marked Route 2). The track soon turns into a mule path and goes
round to the left and then follows the contours of the hill albeit climbing
somewhat. Soon you pass the new reservoir way down below on the left - the
cobbled path is really nice with it's walled side and the views around are good.
Continue along eventually climbing up to a saddle and then at the top the path
levels a little before climbing again to eventually reach Richopo and it's small
private church.
Continue past the church now on Route 1 and follow this until
you arrive above Ano Syros - the views of the Monastery of St Jean are really
good. There has been a bit of destruction as you start to descend but the
route is very obvious - finally you bear right to meet the small white church of
Panachriandos and subsequently the main road. Turn left along the main road then
take the next road on the right which leads down to the church of Anastasia where
there is a great place to sit and look at the harbour and town below. From here
follow the beautiful steps all the way back into Ermoupoli.
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