Megalos Prinos and Mikros Prinos are two villages which
nestle in the valley between two mountains and are reached by leaving the
coastal road at Prinos (beware of Mondays in Prinos - market day chaos).
Both villages are well worth a look around and are in an excellent
position for taking several walks into the mountains.
We parked at the Mikros Prinos near to the church and
took the track clearly marked to Moni Ag Panteleimon - which (like a few
others) we assumed to be a shortish walk. Fortunately we had plenty of
drinks and a picnic with us - this walk is quite hard, very hot with
little shade and just over five kilometres UP. When you get to the Moni it
is more than likely to be closed, with just a couple of picnic tables by
the front door and still no shade to speak of, let alone any tap/well or even running
water for a cooldown/splash. You can go on from here and make a complete circular walk (see our
next walk).
This following walk again started off by parking at Mikros Prinos - note this walk is around 20 kilometres and has little shade, goes mostly UP for the first 8 kilometres or so, and unsurprisingly there are no tavernas or much of anything else except gorgeous views of the valleys and mountains.
Follow the road from Mikros Prinos to Megalos Prinos - you pass an elevated taverna on your left and then a few hundred yards on a very steep road on your right goes into the village however the track for the walk goes straight on. Essentially just keep on this track as it winds its way up into the hills (do not take a track off to your right which just returns to Megalos Prinos).
Eventually you come to a junction with the left hand track going to the
military radar station - this is apparently not available for public access -
therefore continue straight on until you arrive at a clearing with several cross
tracks and also a large water tank and picnic tables - the tank water is quite
manky but there is a tap on a pipe which had crystal clear water ideal for a
nice refreshing splash - we were unsure about the actual water quality so did
not drink it. We took the centre main track which takes you round the
opposite side of the valley from where you started - pass a track on your
left and continue until you come to a T junction where you turn right and
follow the track until you arrive at the Moni Ag Panteleimon. From here
simply follow the track back down to Mikros Prinos and have a welcome beer
in the Taverna located under the trees.
Maries is reached by leaving the coast road at
Skala Maries and makes a quite an enjoyable drive as you pass through
olive groves, pine, walnut and plane trees - the road actually follows a
rocky stream for much of the way as well as two interesting churches (one
of which has picnic tables by the side of the road from where you can see
the river/stream - very pleasant spot.)
You need to be aware of the many goats on the road, some of which
seem to think running across the road in front of you at the last ,oment is a good idea..
As you enter Maries, take the road to your right and you will find parking
spaces near the taverna. You can continue on the dirt track right into the
valley - since we both walked and (another time) drove along this track it's
worth mentioning that there are quite a few
views etc which you just cannot see and enjoy whilst driving, as well as the
opportunity to chat to a goat herder and also perhaps a beekeeper.
The track follows a stream and after several kilometres
you can see several small waterfalls and then eventually an artificial
lake - all of which are certainly worth exploring. Continuing onwards you
come to a
three track junction - you can climb down to the stream here and
also if you are fortunate can be invited up to the woodman's hut for a
chat with him whilst you eat your do-nuts.
This junction offers a start point for two walking
opportunities - one to Kastro and the other a huge circular round the
valley which includes towards it's end passing by one of the marble
quarries which are fuly operating in the area.
A circular walk starting at
the junction by the woodman's hut. With the hut on your right bear left following the track
alongside the stream and after several hundred yards take the switchback
turning to the left which heads up into the hills. Ignore a turning on
your right - just keep
on the main track and enjoy the ever expanding
views as the hills appear and also eventually a birds-eye view of the
lake. Continue on the main path, ignore the next turning on your left and
continue on up to the saddle high above the valley.
At the junction at the very top of the saddle turn right (straight on would take you to the Moni Ag
Panteleimon), and keep following the track along the top of the ridge. You
will pass a turning on your right after a
while which if you wish can
shorten the walk considerably since it takes you back down to the bottom
track and back to the woodman's hut.
Otherwise continue straight onwards
until you reach an open area with a water tank on your left - take the
right-hand turn (Maries was marked when we did this walk but...). The
scenery now changes into heavy wooded countryside, with streambeds
crossing your track every so often. Eventually you reach the marble quarry
- keep on your track and ultimately you will arrive back at the woodman's hut.
A "there and back" walk to Kastro starting at the junction by the woodman's hut. Kastro is well worth a visit but note the track - although driveable - is extremely rough in places especially on the top ridges and hence probably only suitable for 4-wheelers - but of course in our view mostly it's totally suitable for a very enjoyable walk.
Passing the woodman's hut on your left take the track in front of you heading away from the stream, and climb up - stay on this track ignoring a track which soon goes off to your left. At the top you come upon a junction with tracks heading in all manner of directions, take the right hand track along the ridge which when we last walked there did signpost Kastro painted on an oil drum. As a matter of interest after several bends along this ridge you actually are officially on a mountain (by a few feet - but nevertheless..).
This track is quite vague since it's made up of heavy
flat rock which at times is indistinguishable from the surrounding terrain
- however simply keep going straight-ish) ahead until you reach a wooded
area which has a junction, take the right fork which winds down hill to a
T junction, here turn left and as you turn the bend here you will see
Kastro marked. Follow this track but try and note a faint track coming in
from the left (it's as your track bears right) - this faint track can be
picked up on your return journey to cut the corner if you wish. Continue
to the next T junction and turn left and walk on into Kastro. Kastro is an
interesting village which is gradually being re-built since it was
deserted due to it's isolation some years ago. There is a "taverna" near
to the church - very reasonably priced too.
Return is either reverse of the way up or take the faint
track mentioned previously - this is something of a guesswork exercise
since faint tracks and paths come and go - but as long as you have a sense
of direction it's a nice saunter which will eventually get you back to the
top ridge. On your way back down the winding track if you are quiet and
very lucky you might come across a dozing snake or two - but being quiet
is important since they soon clear off if they hear you.
Sotiras is well worth a visit - it has traditional houses, a pictureseque square with a fountain which was built in 1888; the village is purched on a pine-clad mountain slope. Whilst a lot of the houses are quite derelict, as with Kastro they are slowly being rebuilt and re-occupied.
Theologos certainly
should not be missed out either and can only
really be explored on foot - if
you just drive
through gazing at the fleeting view of the strange houses
you may well go back home and wonder what you
missed. Park at the start of the village (just before the road narrows)
and take a stroll on down the road into the village, taking side
roads/alleys as you please, looking at all the houses being renovated, the
way they are painted, the gardens and so on.
We took lots of photographs
in Theologos whilst on holiday on Thassos only some of which are placed below.
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