Steni Vala to Patitiri Quite honestly we did not find Steni Vala itself that exceptional, in fact it just was a frontage along the very small harbour with just a few fishing boats and some yachts moored. There are several tavernas and a supermarket which are basically there to service the yacht flotillas and the day trippers coming for the bus ride from Patitiri. However as a start point for a very enjoyable walk back to Patitiri then Steni Vala's existence is certainly justified.
The walk starts from the harbour - facing the boats go right to the end of the quay and then continue on round passing the beach on a paved path, the walk is marked here as Walk 10. The path climbs easily out of the harbour and then along the coast - there are good views of Steni Vala from here. The path converts to more of a dirt path just before it reaches the very picturesque beach at Aghios Petros.
Continue along across the beach and near the far end
take a soon narrow path, lookout for and take an even more
narrow path on the right a little way along which heads up quite steeply inland
to reach a dirt track. Turn right and when you reach a T-junction turn
left - follow this for a few metres and then look out for a yellow 10 path marker on the right.
Take this path - it climbs and winds quite steeply up into the hills - this is a well marked path. The path eventually
levels out somewhat on a more open area and then reaches another dirt
track - turn right and on reaching the main dirt road turn left.
Continue on this main track as it goes through a small village - the area is called Isomata. After about half a kilometre
and on a left bend [N39°10'47"
E023°54'28"] look out for a blue sign marked Lefto Ghialos
on the right - take the path down and soon bear left on rough ground
- there is a yellow number 9 marker here. The path goes through olive
groves and then winds very very steeply down - quite slippery in places
- to emerge on a concrete track near a large house. Continue on down
to the main road and turn left to walk on down to the lovely beach at Lefto Ghialos.
This is a really nice (but hot) pebbly beach and has two tavernas - the taverna on the beach front is quite spacious and is packed with tubs of flowers etc. - really picturesque. This beach is on the water taxi route and also is a stopping off place for various boat trips. To continue the walk, go back up the road but this time simply stay on it as it winds and climbs up to eventually reach the main tarmac road - you get good views of the coast on the way as well as views of the beaches of Tzortzi Ghialos and Kokinokastro quite a long way below.
On reaching the main road turn right and follow it uphill for just under a kilometre - just after passing some olive
trees take a track on the left [N39°10'39" E023°53'37"] which
switches back to go parallel to the way you have just come
on the main road. Continue on this very nice track for several kilometres
- passing four tracks going off to the right - the track brings
you to and through the area called Raches. When the track turns
very sharply left you can cut the corner by going down through the
woods and through the goat farm to rejoin the track at the bottom,
turn right and then continue along the track which soon becomes
tarmac. Carry on along the road, ignoring a road to the Academy
of Homeopathy on the left, and keep going to finally reach the main
road near Votsi. Turn right and follow the main road back into Patitiri.
Patitiri-several churches-Ghialia and Votsi beaches-Patitiri
With your back to the sea there are two main roads which go inland from
Patitiri harbour - the road on the right is where the taxis and
buses congregate and the one on the left (near the town beach) goes up passing the tavernas
and shops - take the road on the left. The road climbs a little and passes a garage
on the right and just after this look out for the start of the moni-path
on the left - this is very clearly marked with a notice board and map
- the path is marked 4. Follow the path as it starts climbing - stay
on the main path ignoring side paths until you reach a concrete road
and house directly in front of you, turn right in front of the house
to continue along the moni-path - do not take any side paths and eventually
you arrive on at dirt road.
Cross the dirt road and continue straight
ahead on the moni path until you come to the main road.
Turn right and lookout for a small concrete road on
the right - just before a fence take a path again on the right
which takes you to the small church of Taxiarchis - the church is quite buried
in foliage - there are good views of Chora from here too.
Return back to the main road and turn right - continue along now with the aerial
farm visible quite high up above you and the church of Aghios Fanourios
on a small hillock also in front of you.
At the road junction take a small path opposite which goes over scrub up to the gates of the church.
Note we found the gates locked when we visited - if this is still the
case it might be worth walking clockwise round the outside wall to see
if access can be gained round the far side... Back down to the road
junction, turn right and follow this initially tarmac road - marked
to OTE - and then after around 300 metres the road forks, go on
the right hand (now dirt) road and follow this as it winds on up
to the aerial farm. There are good views from up here (altitude
245 metres) of quite a lot of Alonissos as well as it's neighbouring
islands as well as a nice large shady tree to cool down under.
The aerial farm is at GPS reading N39°09'45"
E023°51'30". Return back down the track - when it
starts to bend to the right take a small track on the left - this
brings you firstly to the small church of Aghia Sotira which is
hidden in amongst trees on the right and then to the springs at
Vrisi Panaghias and then finally to the church of Panaghia sto Vouno
- the area around the spring and this church is particularly nice.
Return back to the
main road junction (where the OTE sign is marked)
- now take the dirt road on the right marked to Ghialia
(or Yialia), just as the dirt road starts divert to take a small
track on your left which goes up to the small church of Profitis
Ilias. Return back to the main dirt road and continue along it as it winds down hill.
On a sharp bend take a small track on the right
- it does not go to anywhere particularly but is a really pleasant
track to walk along - has a nice spring and the foliage is excellent.
Walk this as far as you fancy and then return back to the main dirt
road, turn right and continue on down towards the sea.
Further down the dirt road splits, keep right and eventually reach the beach with it's restored windmill.
This beach is nothing to get excited about really and when the tide/wind
is in the "wrong" direction can be rather scruffy with debris etc.
- we found this to be the case and only stayed a few minutes but
a couple of walkers we met said when they visited earlier in the
week the sea was lovely and clean/clear so it's perhaps pot-luck.
Return all the way back up to the main road (the OTE junction) ((but remember that spring
mentioned earlier if you want a quick splash on the possibly very
hot way back up)). At the road junction take the dirt road vitrually
opposite then further along take the second track on the left -
this is another really lovely track which is bordered with flowers,
blackberry bushes, shrubs and perhaps surprisingly lush ferns. When
the track splits by a water cistern stay left and ignore any further
side tracks until you reach a tarmac road.
Turn right and then right again at the next small track - this will take you to the Megha Nero spring - watch out for the wasps - follow the path left passing the spring to rejoin the tarmac road. Go right and follow this to shortly reach the main road - go right here and then on the bend take the road into Votsi with it's small harbour, beach and several tavernas. Leave by taking the steps up through the tavernas to the tarmac road - go left and then shortly left again along a dirt road - as you reach a house on the left (maybe still being built/refurbished) go left to follow a path round the headland to reach some steps which take you into Rousoum Ghialos.
We liked this Alonissos beach - there are a few tavernas - however this beach seemed to be a great favorite
with local islanders and gets quite busy in late afternoon -
in fact very busy. To return to Patitiri take the steps at the far
end of the beach which go up past apartments and through houses
to reach the road, turn left to soon reach a main road junction
- a nice way to get to Patitiri harbour is to turn left and follow
this road down to where it ends - walk down the steps on the right
- there are so many pots filled with flowers etc. here it's quite
amazing - the walkway is covered with them - this way brings you
down to the road just outside the harbour which you soon reach by turning left.
Patitiri-Megha Nero-Aghi Anarghiri-Meghali Amos-Patitiri.
With your back to the sea there are two main roads which go inland from
Patitiri harbour - take the road on the right where the taxis
and buses congregate - follow this uphill out of the town - stay left at the first main road junction and
then go right at the next road junction. Shortly along this road splits
- (the left fork goes to Chora) - take the right fork which is the main
road heading to Steni Vala and the top of the island.
Continue along the main road - passing a petrol station and then the Votsi turn - until
you come to a tarmac road on the left. Follow this tarmac road - after
a short distance take a track going off to the left which will bring
you to the Megha Nero Springs. Watch out here because there are lots
of flying bugs around including many wasps - we passed it quite quickly
for that reason without even trying to get a photo.
From the springs the path bears right and rejoins
the now gravelly tarmac road. Turn left and ignore the next small track
on the left and then at a main track junction
turn left (there is a small farm on the corner) on the track which goes to Tsoukalia.
However about a third of a kilometre
along the track splits - take the right hand fork and follow this down
through pine forests - this is in fact Path 5 but there are not many
markers. Stay on this main track - ignore a small cross track - then
look out for a small track on the left which on the map shows as going
to Aghios Andreas. There is not actually very much of this church left
- in fact it is simply a pile of stones - but if you walk on through
the trees a little way you do get good views of the coastline. Return
back to the main track and turn left and continue along until the track
ends at a house (but a few 100 metres before this have a look at a very
old ruined dry spring buried in the undergrowth on the right).
Pass the house and the track now becomes a narrow path which follows the
cliff edge - when the path splits take the left fork to walk down to the two churches of Aghi Anarghiri.
Continue on the path as it goes in front of both
churches and then back into woodlands - the path goes down to arrive by a house
just above the beach at Tourkeneri. Go
by the front of the house on a track - passing the small beach -
and continue on up into the woods to eventually reach a T-junction.
Turn right and just by a concrete spring on the left lookout for
a red marker which marks a narrow path going on up into the woods
- take this path until it reaches a main dirt road.
Turn left and follow this to the next junction, go left again and follow this
for .7 of a kilometre; to arrive at a small track on a sharp
bend which goes off to the left.
Take this really nice track as
it winds down through the valley to eventually end just
in front of a gate - just before the gate a footpath leads
off on the right - crosses scrubland and some trees - passes a small
beach on the left and then drops down by a wall. Keep straight on
here going along the coast to arrive at Meghali Amos beach - a great
beach with beautiful clear water but sometimes really busy - one
time there were at least 2 other people on it.
Return to the track by the gate, turn left and after a
few metres turn right up a footpath which winds through olive groves
and then along the low cliffs to reach a dirt track (by a brocken
fence). Turn right along the track and continue on
this eventually passing the spring and then a little further on
look out for a more open area in the pine trees and a footpath sign
on the right pointing to Aghi Anarghiri.
Take this path which goes through pine trees and then olive groves - look out
for a very small path on the left which takes you down to the house and track
near the old ruined spring. Turn left and follow the original route back to Patitiri.
Gheladhias-Meghalo Chorafi-Meghali Amos-Patitiri: 14kms
This long walk starts from the main road about three
quarters up the island in the Gheladhias area - we took a taxi ride
from Patitiri which at the time cost 12 Euros (started at 15 for some
reason so always remember to negotiate and fix a rate before taking a taxi ride).
Also and maybe surprisingly our taxi driver was not too
certain where we wanted to go to even though we showed him it on the
Topo map - basically continue on the main road past the Steni Vala turn
for 2.9kms - the drop off point is the second dirt road on the left on a very sharp bend.
Start off on this wide dirt road and follow it along across the island towards Psili Rachi - the area is quite rocky
but has plenty of low foliage and you get the impression of being on the
top of the island. You also are quite likely to come across some of
the inhabitants up here - namely goats - one herd; which passed
us must have numbered well over a hundred. The track drops down gently
- ignore a track going off to the left - to finally reach a junction
at about 2.6kms where you will find an old threshing circle. (The
track on the right from here takes you the short distance along to the
church at Aghios Konstantinos - well worth a diversion if you have not already walked path 13).
Take the marked path on the left (yellow 6) - this path stays high as it makes it's way down the island and is very well marked with yellow 6's and red dots. After about half a kilometre and by a farm building and fence the path goes slightly left to cross a small dirt track and then continues on down island. The path passes through a threshing circle as well as very open country which in places still had the appearance of old marked out fields - also from this high path you get views of distant Chora, Kalovoulos and distant Skopelos. The path eventually comes out on a dirt track - continue along this track now in the Meghalo Chorafi area - soon the track bends sharply and here take the second path on the right which is clearly marked path 8.
This path goes into woods and is quite rocky underfoot in places - also there
are a lot of trees down from the winter storms and this makes it awkward to go
through in places - however the aim is to stay in the same direction downwards
always keeping in what becomes a dry river bed.
There are red blob markers in places - in particular in one very overgrown area you
need to keep to the right hand side and also further down the path splits - make
sure you keep to the right i.e. straight on since the left path takes you out of the ravine.
There are loads of butterflies around here and also quite heavy but low undergrowth
and in front of you appears a very high rock face - but don't panic
- you do not need to climb over it. Instead and luckily the path
bears right to go between the hills. Here the path is not terribly
evident - there are lots of olive trees and small walls and you
have to wind your way between them until you come to a gate. Go
through the gate and the path changes underfoot to small stone scree
which is quite difficult to walk on - this lasts for a few 100 metres
until the path comes out on a dirt road.
Turn left and follow the dirt road until you reach a junction, go right and carry on to the next junction where you go right again - the dirt road climbs slightly and comes out by houses - then on the left is a signpost and path marker no 5. Take this path to go down sometimes quite steeply to reach the beach at Meghali Amos - this was our favourite beach to go to - no shade, no facilities, very hot, white pebbles and clear sea-water (and usually at most a couple of people on it - magic). Needless to say because of how isolated the beach is then having a nice relaxing nude swim and sunbathe was a must for us.
From behind the beach the path continues along the coast - marked
with red dots - passing a tiny un-named beach and then reaches
a small dirt road - turn left and then on the bend take a path
on the right going up through olive groves - the path continues
along and above the shoreline and comes out on another dirt
road. Turn right and follow the dirt road steeply up and as
it bends left take a path going straight on through the woods
to later emerge back on the dirt road.
Ignore a track on the right and continue straight on soon passing a concrete spring
(the water in it is total crap by the way) -
the dirt road winds up and round - look out for a more open
wooded area on the right with a signpost to Ag. Anarghiri -
take this path through the trees and then olive groves - keep
a lookout for a narrow path on the left which goes steeply down
to a house (you can see the roof) (and you may see a snake here
too if you are lucky). On reaching a dirt road go left and follow
this until it eventually reaches a tarmac road. Go almost straight
on uphill to a junction, turn right and follow this round
to pick up the main road, turn right again and follow this back into Patitiri
Tourkovighla - Meghali Amos - Aghi Anarghiri - Patitiri
This walk starts from the main road by cross tracks in the area between
Pefko and Pagiri - this is on the Steni Vala bus route and the driver
will happily stop here providing you point it out on the map.
It takes you up to one of the accessible high points on the island - Tourkovighla
- and then to our favourite beach before enjoying the 90 minutes or
so stroll back to Patitiri.
From the bus stop cross the road and take the dirt track opposite - this soon
bends round and then heads up to a junction - turn right. Continue on this
dirt road and when it splits take the track on the right and keep going on up
until you reach another junction - take the rough track going sharply off on the
right and follow it up until it ends in an
area of walls and olive groves.
The path up to Tourkovighla is somewhat difficult to find since the area is very rocky and also has lots
of goat paths - start off by the wall on the left and make your way
up by criss crossing and selecting paths as you see them obviously always
aiming upwards. The top is identified by some large rocks with a circular
trig point - this is at 349 metres. Apart from trees, goats and lots
of rocks there is nothing else up here except of course really good
views of both coastlines. Return back down the same way (probably a
faint hope of finding exactly the same way...) and on reaching the dirt road head back down again.
Ignore a track on the right (which is a dead end) by a sharp bend (except we did walk down this a little way and it is a nice pretty track to walk if you fancy it) and then take the next track on the right - this is a grassy track which goes down through olive groves and then becomes a very narrow path into the woods.
The path bottoms out in a gorge on a dry river bed - cross over this and then head left downwards through the gorge - there are loads of butterflies around here and also quite heavy but low undergrowth and soon in front of you appears a very high rock face - the onward path bears right to go between the hills. The path is not too clear in places - there are lots of olive trees and small walls and you have to wind your way between them until you come to a gate. Go through the gate and the path soon becomes quite slippery and difficult underfoot because of the small stones and rocks - this lasts for a few 100 metres until the path comes out on a dirt road
Turn left and follow the dirt road to a junction,
then turn right onto a smaller road and then left at the next junction -
which is marked Meghali Amos. Follow the road until it ends near a house
on your right - make your way round the left side and then behind
the house. (red blob marks) (this part may well change by the house
since it was still being built/renovated). The path continues down
through shrubs and quite soon arrives at Meghali Amos beach. Just
away from the beach and with the sea behind you take a marked path
going off to the right heading along the coast - soon passing a
tiny un-named beach and then reaches a small dirt road - turn left
and then on the bend take a path on the right going up through olive
groves now with views of Toukoneri Bay - the path continues along
and above the shoreline and comes out on another dirt road.
Turn right and follow the dirt road steeply up
and as it bends left take a path going straight on through the woods
to later emerge back on the dirt road. Ignore a track on the right
and continue straight on soon passing a concrete spring
the dirt road winds up and round - look out for a more open wooded area
on the right with a signpost to Ag. Anarghiri - take this path through
the trees and then olive groves and then on into the woods. When
you reach the cliff top turn right (but first
go down to look at the two churches)and continue along the
coastal path to emerge on a dirt road by a house. Follow this until
it eventually reaches a tarmac road, go almost straight on uphill
to a junction, turn right and follow this round to pick up the main
road, turn right again and follow this back into Patitiri.
Other Alonissos Walks on Our Site:-
Patitiri-Chora-Kalovoulos-Cape Kokino-Mikros Mouritas-Patitiri Circular
Patitiri-Chora-Meghalos Mouritas-Vithisma-Plakes-Faro-Patitiri Circular - total climb 1440m.14km
Melaghakia-Aghios Konstantinos-Aghios Georgios-Melaghakia Circular - undulates. About 9km
Kastanarema Gorge Circular 1 steep climb of 472m. 7km
Remata - Meghalo Chorafi - Aghalou Laka - Remata
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